I spent just under two weeks in Buenos Aires, Argentina in May 2018 with a group of HBS students. At the end of our first year of business school, we participate in a global immersion program, where we work on small consulting projects with Argentinean businesses. The project work allowed me to get to know a few Argentineans (more specifically, porteñas - what women from Buenos Aires call themselves) in a way that I wouldn't have on normal leisure travel. While this trip was part work/school - it was also way too much fun. I'm writing this about a month later and I'm only now finally catching up on all the lost sleep. But, I wanted to provide the context up front because it shaped where we stayed, our schedule, and the overall experience.
There's a ton more to explore in Argentina (Patagonia, Mendoza, Iguazú Falls - just to name a few), but I'm saving those destinations for another trip down south.
There's a ton more to explore in Argentina (Patagonia, Mendoza, Iguazú Falls - just to name a few), but I'm saving those destinations for another trip down south.
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Where we stayed: While with HBS, we stayed at the Emperador Hotel in Recoleta which was fine, but nothing special. Location wise, it was fairly central, though there isn't much within walking distance. The Four Seasons, which was very nice (great breakfast buffet, pool, and bar), is just a block away if you're willing to splurge and want to stay in Recoleta. For a few days before I left, I stayed with a few friends in an Airbnb in Palermo Hollywood. I'd definitely recommend staying in Palermo Hollywood or Palermo Soho (south of Av. Juan Bautista Justo) because there are so many restaurants, bars, and shops within walking distance.
How to get around: When we were there, Uber was still technically illegal, but very popular. We typically had to wait 5-15 minutes for a car, but it's helpful if you don't speak Spanish and/or don't have cash. It tended to be a little bit cheaper than a normal cab, so that's a plus too. But, I never had issues with the cabs I hailed on the street. I took the train once, but ended up going in the wrong direction...woops! So, can't comment too much about the public transportation unfortunately. Note: when you take a normal cab to/from the airport (or through any toll roads), you will have to pay for the tolls as well and that won't show up in the metered fare. So your driver isn't trying to rip you off (probably) if they're telling you something higher than what you see on the meter. Money: You can often save money at stores and restaurants by paying in cash. Most places will take USD and it can be expensive to withdraw money from an ATM (~$10/withdrawal). So, bring a no-fees ATM card (I have the Charles Schwab card and highly recommend it, there are no minimums on the checking account), get pesos from your bank before you leave, or bring USD to exchange on you're in-country. Where to get a custom leather jacket: Bettina Rizzi. I'd recommend bringing a picture of a style you want her to make. Or, you can check out the styles she has in-store and have her tailor one to fit you perfectly. She can sometimes do same-day turnaround if you go early enough (and on a weekday), but definitely next-day. She also delivers to hotels. Bring cash to save money. Several of us got jackets made from her and we were all really happy with the results. There are a few bigger places that have a lot of Trip Advisor reviews, but they're almost twice as expensive since they're catering towards tourists. |
My recommendation on to use this map: view this page horizontally from your smartphone and click the little bracket icon in the top right which will open your Google Map application. Then, the map should be saved in Menu (the 3 horizontal bars) --> "your places" --> "maps" which will make it easier for you to look up recommendations based on where you are. You can do this from your browser too and save it to your drive, then it should show up in the same place. If you can't figure it out, email me and I can share the map with you directly!
Another pro-tip is to download parts of Google Maps for offline use. Instructions here. |
Food & Drink
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Alright, what you really came to this page for. The food and nightlife will not disappoint. A few of my favorites are highlighted below.
Check out the map above for the comprehensive list of recommendations - includes recommendations I consolidated from a few friends that I didn't end up getting to try. |
Meat:
- Every Argentinean you ask will have a different favorite parilla...so I won't even pretend like these are the best. There are a bunch of others that are really popular. Read here about the different cuts of meat and how to say "medium rare" in Spanish. Also, parillas will almost all have this fried cheese dish...get it.
- Parrilla al Carbon (Serrano 958 near Palermo) - a very local and low-key parilla. This was the first meal I had in BA and was one of the best (and cheapest). Grab an empanada to start and some fries to eat with your steak.
- Don Julio (Palermo Soho) - this is one of the most popular spots. Traditional yet also touristy (many locals haven't been), but I thought it was worth it! Make a reservation online. Loved the tenderloin and mashed potatoes. The owner at Casa Coupage did say that he felt like this was the best meat (aside from his own) in BA. He recommended the entraña, but unfortunately they were out when we went.
Italian:
- Cucina Paradiso (two locations, Palermo and Belgrano) - I cannot emphasize enough how obsessed we were with this place. Hands down some of the BEST pasta I've had in my life, including in Italy. I went four times...and I wasn't the only one. It feels like you're in a quaint Italian deli that happens to also have a few tables for people to eat. All the pastas are made fresh daily and will run you about $15. We loved their pesto tagliatelle, risotatti with spicy meat sauce (warning: the Palermo location was often out of this...which did not make us happy), and butternut squash ravioli, but you honestly cannot go wrong with anything. Just looking at the menu now makes me want to go back...it also makes me realize that they have a broader menu (desserts, meats, etc.) that we didn't end up trying. Don't forget to ask for their chili oil.
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Other dinner:
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Breakfast / brunch:
Ice Cream:
- BRANDON (Palermo Hollywood) - this place looks like it could be in [insert name of any trendy neighborhood anywhere]. The high ceilings and chatty waiters make this a great spot for a leisurely breakfast. They have a set breakfast menu that's a great deal because it comes with coffee or tea and OJ. I tried the granola one and also the medialuna (croissant) one. Both were great! For lunch, I got the shrimp dish (had some Thai flavors with coconut rice) and tried some of their juices. Great place to get something that makes you feel a little healthier. BRANDON is open until 1 or 2AM (weekends) and apparently is a great place to have cocktails too.
- Ninina (three locations, one in the MALBA) - tasty flavored lattes, avocado toast, eggs with proscuitto...need I say more? Stop in for a bite before / after exploring the exhibits at the MALBA museum.
Ice Cream:
- Rapa Nui (many locations) - the coconut is to die for. They also have amazing chocolate dipped raspberries. Also, the have cup-cones. Like cones...but in the shape of cups. That's the best of both worlds if you ask me!
- Cadore (on Avenida Corrientes downtown). According to our tour guide, Macri's favorite ice cream is Cadore's pistachio. I tried it...he's has good taste.
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Nightlife and dancing!
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- Florería Atlántico (Recoleta) - amazing bar underneath a flower shop. People loved their house negroni. Straightforward and fresh cocktails. Their menu is also really awesome - it's formatted almost like a kid's storybook. There were lots of people eating dinner there, so I'm assuming the food is pretty good too!
- In terms of clubs, Tequila is incredibly popular (especially Fridays). There's also Jet, Afrika, Rosebar, and many many more. Our favorite was Derby in San Isidro - a nice suburb of BA - we went with our clients who lived up there. Probably not worth the trek though, if you're looking to stay in BA-proper.
Touristy things to do
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MALBA - I loved this museum! It's not big so you can see everything in about two hours. There's a student discount so bring your ID if you're a student. Floralis Generica (in the Plaza de las Naciones Unidas) is to BA as the bean is to Chicago. It was broken when I went, but it's supposed to open and close automatically with the sunlight. The park around it is great to hang out in - there are some wooden benches that are shaped like pool lounge chairs. Perfect for an afternoon map! Teatro Colón - I just went for a tour of the space (~$20, check the schedule for English speaking tours). It's definitely worth checking out and if you enjoy opera, grab a ticket for a show. The theater is so big and acoustically-perfect that oftentimes opera singers arrive after signing a contract then quit because it's too intimidating of a place to be able to fill with their voice. San Telmo Market - Sunday antique market which is fun to wander around. Tell a cab to take you to "Plaza Dorrego." The center of the market is full with older vendors selling what look to be real antiques. Maybe things their families brought over from Europe back in the day, or stuff they've collected over the years as families sold some valuables. Outside of the main area, there are also plenty of vendors selling more touristy things or modern leather goods - perfect place to pick up a souvenir or two. Calle Lanín - a small street a little ways from La Boca and without the crowds of tourists. An artist that lives on this street decided to beautify the street by painting and creating awesome mosaic patterns on many of the homes (be mindful while in this area, like La Boca, it is not that safe at night). Palermo - we stayed around here so I ended up wandering quite a bit. Check out the park (very busy with people working out on the weekends), particularly the rose garden (wasn't in bloom when we went). The bus stop by Plaza Italia is also home to a bunch of cute secondhand bookstores. Then, shop til you drop (but actually don't because it's crazy expensive) in Palermo Soho. But, find a nice rooftop to hang out on and watch the sunset. |
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Recoleta Cemetery - this place reminds me of the cemetery in Granada, Nicaragua. People go to see Evita's grave, but it's worth spending ~30 minutes checking out some of the others in the area. Read about some interesting grave sites online if you can before going (we had a guide which made the visit more dynamic). It's interesting because families buy plots (not cheap) and then put coffins on the ground floor. As space runs out, they are moved (sometimes cremated first) into the basement. You can often see the stairs going down into the dark cobweb-invested bottom floor(s). There are many stray cats, but they keep the mice away...so that's probably net positive for the area. (Note: closes at 5:30pm when a security guard rings a bell by the main entrance...it's loud, you'll want to leave)
Caminito (La Boca) - picturesque colorful street. Very touristy but I really enjoyed it. Today, La Boca is a pretty dangerous neighborhood at night, but back in the day it was a vibrant community of immigrants. La Boca means mouth, because this was at the mouth of the river and there were lots of boats that would dock here in the harbor. I thought the houses were painted more recently to incentivize tourism, but the reason the houses are so colorful is because people would go down to the dock and pick up leftover paint from ship builders. They would use whatever paint they could find to paint their homes, then go down the next day to get more if it wasn't enough.
Street art tour - I didn't end up doing this because it rained the day we were planning on going, but there's definitely some awesome street art in BA. After my street art experience in CDMX, I think this would be a great way to see the city by foot (or van) and get a sense of some of things being expressed through this medium.
Caminito (La Boca) - picturesque colorful street. Very touristy but I really enjoyed it. Today, La Boca is a pretty dangerous neighborhood at night, but back in the day it was a vibrant community of immigrants. La Boca means mouth, because this was at the mouth of the river and there were lots of boats that would dock here in the harbor. I thought the houses were painted more recently to incentivize tourism, but the reason the houses are so colorful is because people would go down to the dock and pick up leftover paint from ship builders. They would use whatever paint they could find to paint their homes, then go down the next day to get more if it wasn't enough.
Street art tour - I didn't end up doing this because it rained the day we were planning on going, but there's definitely some awesome street art in BA. After my street art experience in CDMX, I think this would be a great way to see the city by foot (or van) and get a sense of some of things being expressed through this medium.
Other observations about Buenos Aires
- Chimichurri in Buenos Aires is red, not green (parsley) like in the states
- It's normal for restaurants to be open from 8am - 2am if they serve all meals. Porteños tend to eat dinner at 9pm or later. So if you go to dinner at 7, you'll be the only one there (though this can be a good strategy for popular restaurants). Clubs, then, probably hit their peak around 2-3am and stay open until sunrise.
- Street intersections feel bigger because corner stores open out towards the center of the intersection (see photo) - these types of corners are called ochavas!
- Many intersections don't have street lights or stop signs, so no texting and walking! Cars yield to one another and people as they please.
- Double L's are pronounced more like j's
- Tip is always in cash, even in places that accept credit cards (and you can usually get a discount if you pay in cash #taxevasion)
