I've been to Mexico City three times now and it never disappoints. It's on my shortlist of “places I could live.” That’s not something I throw around lightly. While planning my first trip in 2017, my friends and I got a lot of comments like, “why would you go to Mexico City” and “it’s so dangerous!” But our experience couldn’t have been better.
I really think there's something for everyone in Mexico City (food, museums, outdoor activities, etc.). As you think about what you want to do, I recommend marking things on Google Maps so you can start grouping activities together (plan for traffic) and things should fall into place nicely. Each time I went, I prioritized food and a few must sees. Here is a Google Map with a bunch of restaurants/bars pinned - I also have a color coded 3-day itinerary from my first trip by the half hour (#travelingwithconsultants), so let me know if you want to see that!
Would recommend making reservations in advance for virtually everything (including brunch). Most restaurants and bars are on Open Table/Resy.
The below is sorted by trip - the first two were in 2017. I stayed for a full week in 2021 which allowed for a more relaxing pace and a few longer activities. I've listed those out at the bottom.
I really think there's something for everyone in Mexico City (food, museums, outdoor activities, etc.). As you think about what you want to do, I recommend marking things on Google Maps so you can start grouping activities together (plan for traffic) and things should fall into place nicely. Each time I went, I prioritized food and a few must sees. Here is a Google Map with a bunch of restaurants/bars pinned - I also have a color coded 3-day itinerary from my first trip by the half hour (#travelingwithconsultants), so let me know if you want to see that!
Would recommend making reservations in advance for virtually everything (including brunch). Most restaurants and bars are on Open Table/Resy.
The below is sorted by trip - the first two were in 2017. I stayed for a full week in 2021 which allowed for a more relaxing pace and a few longer activities. I've listed those out at the bottom.
Where to stay: We chose to stay in an AirBnb in the La Condesa / Roma Norte area. It served as a great home base for all our activities. We were walking distance to a few convenience stores (you’ll be picking up lots of bottles of water), banks, and restaurants. Another ritzy area (home to Pottery Barn Kids and Orange Theory), Polanco, would put you closer to some of the fancy restaurants and nightlife so that could be a fun option. The Frida Kahlo museum is on the Southern part of the city in an area called Coyoacán – we loved walked around there too. It’s really easy to get around using Uber, but there’s also a lot of traffic in the city. So I would map out the places you want to visit, and then pick a place to stay based on that. If you have a group, I think an AirBnb may be the best value for your money - we paid $110 per night and split that four ways.
How to get around: I just mentioned Uber, so this is redundant, but UBER! We never had an issue requesting one – this will also be helpful for those of you who don’t speak Spanish since you can put in your destination. Almost all the drivers asked if we wanted to direct or if we wanted them to use GPS (Waze is popular), so if you see them waiting on a response from you, saying “GPS” may get you 80% of the way there. There are a lot of one-way streets in the city, so don’t get frustrated when your Uber driver looks like she/he is going in circles trying to get to you.
The airport is separated into two terminals - however, it's not walkable. So, if you're arriving on different flights from your friends, make sure you coordinate a meeting place in advance. You cannot take the free airtrain between terminals unless you have a boarding pass showing you are departing from the other. So, you can either take what will likely be a 10 cent Uber to the other terminal, or take the official airport bus. From Terminal 1, you'll catch this red bus outside Puerta (door) 7. Some busses take cash (it was around 15 pesos) and others only accept electronic fares via bus cards (10 pesos). Inside the airport (by door 7) you'll see orange machines where you can buy a bus card. It costs 10 pesos for the card and then you can add fare to that. The machine doesn't give change though, so now I have an awesome souvenier that has a 30 peso value! I didn't feel unsafe taking the bus - it felt like the busses that take you to / from the car rental parking lots.
The airport is separated into two terminals - however, it's not walkable. So, if you're arriving on different flights from your friends, make sure you coordinate a meeting place in advance. You cannot take the free airtrain between terminals unless you have a boarding pass showing you are departing from the other. So, you can either take what will likely be a 10 cent Uber to the other terminal, or take the official airport bus. From Terminal 1, you'll catch this red bus outside Puerta (door) 7. Some busses take cash (it was around 15 pesos) and others only accept electronic fares via bus cards (10 pesos). Inside the airport (by door 7) you'll see orange machines where you can buy a bus card. It costs 10 pesos for the card and then you can add fare to that. The machine doesn't give change though, so now I have an awesome souvenier that has a 30 peso value! I didn't feel unsafe taking the bus - it felt like the busses that take you to / from the car rental parking lots.
How much it will cost: here's the breakdown by key categories for me personally. We were not stingy and did pretty much everything we wanted to do. All in all, one of the cheapest vacations I've taken and incredibly high value for price.
- Food and Drink: $190 (including Quintonil)
- Accommodation: $115
- Taxi: $22
- Tickets: $75
- Other (souvenirs): $15
Friday
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We snagged an early Uber and grabbed coffee (would recommend) and tortas (would not recommend) at Cafe El Jarocho, a few blocks away from the Frida Kahlo museum. It's a casual but very popular popular neighborhood spot that allowed us to get a feel for the culture. There's something about watching grandparent-aged people get together that warms my heart. If you want a nicer / sit-down meal, there seemed to be a lot of options around Jardín Centenario which still keeps you within walking distance. FUN FACT: Did you know enchiladas are a breakfast food? If that's on your list of must-haves, eat them in the morning so you're not disappointed when you ask for them at dinner!
You can get tickets to the Frida Kahlo museum online. We were able to walk right in which was awesome because in Mexico City, every 10 minutes wasted is worth at least one flauta. We spent about 2 hours walking through the house. You have to pay to be able to take photos, but you can just have one person in the group as the designated photographer. All the signs are in English and Spanish so we didn't get the audioguide. They had a temporary exhibit about Frida's clothing which we particularly liked - if it's still there, be sure to check it out. Takeaways from this visit: Frida was a feminist, fashionista, and queen of the original selfie.
After snagging our "picture in front of a bright blue wall" we headed to the Mercado de Coyoacán. This is a great spot to pick up souveniers or grab a quick bite. If you enter on Xicotencatl, right off the corner from Ignacio Allende, you'll come across a vendor (one of the first on the left). We stopped in here first, then continued to wander, but realized he had the best mini skull collection (it's a thing, you'll see) and picked up a few gifts here. We didn't see anything better the rest of the weekend, so no regrets!
You can get tickets to the Frida Kahlo museum online. We were able to walk right in which was awesome because in Mexico City, every 10 minutes wasted is worth at least one flauta. We spent about 2 hours walking through the house. You have to pay to be able to take photos, but you can just have one person in the group as the designated photographer. All the signs are in English and Spanish so we didn't get the audioguide. They had a temporary exhibit about Frida's clothing which we particularly liked - if it's still there, be sure to check it out. Takeaways from this visit: Frida was a feminist, fashionista, and queen of the original selfie.
After snagging our "picture in front of a bright blue wall" we headed to the Mercado de Coyoacán. This is a great spot to pick up souveniers or grab a quick bite. If you enter on Xicotencatl, right off the corner from Ignacio Allende, you'll come across a vendor (one of the first on the left). We stopped in here first, then continued to wander, but realized he had the best mini skull collection (it's a thing, you'll see) and picked up a few gifts here. We didn't see anything better the rest of the weekend, so no regrets!
Then, we enjoyed popsicles from Las Nieves de Coyoacán while wandering around the park and into the church. Then, we back tracked a few blocks and grabbed tacos and flautas at Taquería Aguayo which was delicious. The chorizo here was awesome and not overly greasy or heavy. I think these were my favorite tacos of the weekend! After stuffing our faces with food, we hopped in an Uber to the Floating Gardens of Xochimilco. This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and booze cruise in one. We grabbed a few beers from a corner store by the "port" and then headed into a heated negotiation on price per hour. Luckily, our friend at the store told us that the rate should be around 350 pesos per hour, so we didn't end up paying the *2000 pesos they were trying to charge us at first. Basically, you pay a guy to paddle you along the canal and there are other boats selling food, drinks, ponchos, plants, etc etc along the way. You could probably fit up to 20 people on a boat, or more, if you're as determined as the high school kids partying their Friday afternoon away. This is fun if you're in a group and have a few hours to kill while the sun's out, but is also a bit out of the way, so I wouldn't consider it a must do.
Our evening consisted of liters of beer and Lucha Libre! We pre-purchased tickets on Ticketmaster which were easy to pick up at will call. Then, we found a restaurant close by for dinner, Alma de Quetzal. They had live music and some delicious fried cheese dish which we were never really able to find again...bring your appetite! Lucha Libre was entertaining to say the least. We bought masks at a street vendor before going in - I recommend getting one where you can breathe out of your mouth, haha. To our surprise, Lucha Libre started off with some female wrestlers. The majority of the show was male dominated, and it seemed like people in the crowd had their favorites. Some fighting seemed to be team-based, and all of it was very choreographed. We sat up close so could see a lot of the slapping and spitting that contributed to the sound effects, but if you're farther back and have more beers, you may not even notice...
Oh and when we got in Thursday night, we got great ceviche, plantain chips, and mojitos at this hip Cuban bar / restaurant (La Bodeguita del Medio) by our apartment. They were open late and it was a perfect quick late night spot.
Oh and when we got in Thursday night, we got great ceviche, plantain chips, and mojitos at this hip Cuban bar / restaurant (La Bodeguita del Medio) by our apartment. They were open late and it was a perfect quick late night spot.
Saturday
We woke up bright and early Saturday morning to head to Teotihuacan. You can take public busses, but since we could fill an Uber XL, we decided it was easier to get a cab. It took a little under an hour to get out there in the morning (enter at Puerta 2 or 3), and the Uber driver was willing to wait for us and drive us back. We paid him in cash on the way back. The round trip fare cost us around $20 USD per person. I would avoid going with a tour company because you'll get roped into a lunch stop and won't be able to move at your own pace. We hired a tour guide for $5 USD per person who was able to tell us about the history of Teotihuacan as we walked around. We spent a little under three hours seeing the main sites - mainly the Temple of the Moon (behind us in the picture above) and Temple of the Sun. The stairs are no joke, but if you can't hike up the stairs, I think it's still worth going and walking around the old city grounds. I'll let you visit and learn all about the sacrificial babies for yourself.
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We got dropped off at Zócalo, the main square in downtown Mexico City where the opening scene of Spectre takes place, and then walked to El Huequito for lunch. Anthony Bourdain recommends their al pastor tacos which were really good. I recommend holding the cheese and just going with the classic. Their guac was a crowd pleaser and they had a fondue / queso type dish which we liked, but their chorizo wasn't anything special. This was a nice spot for us to sit down and rest after spending a ton of time outdoors, but it's also a little bit more expensive than what you'd probably find elsewhere and I wouldn't say the food was spectacular. There's a churro place on the corner though, Casa Churra, that I'm still dreaming about today. If you want to splurge on lunch, we stopped by this great rooftop restaurant / bar, El Mayor which gives you a great view of the the Aztec ruins right in the main square. It looked like you could just order drinks on the patio, but we didn't have time to wait around for a table.
After lunch, we took our obligatory tourist pictures at the CDMX sign. The city started its rebranding from Distrito Federal to Ciudad de Mexico in 2016. While the name change isn't officially set in stone until 2018, you can see signs of the shift all around the city, most notably with the new pink CDMX-branded cabs. Read more about what this name change represents politically here and here.
Of course, a visit to Mexico City isn't complete without a visit to the largest cathedral in the Americas...it might also have the longest name: Catedral Metropolitana de la Asunción de la Santísima Virgen María a los cielos. It doesn't disappoint. The picture of the doll above is an ongoing mystery though, does anyone know what that is / what that represents? There were a ton of people taking pictures with it but no signage. That wasn't something I had seen in a church before!
Our friends told us that we had to stop by the Palace of Fine Arts building, so we walked over there to admire it from the outside. It's right on the edge of a park, Alameda Central, where tons of families bring their kids to play in the water fountains. There was also a street festival going on in the area and we resisted the urge to snack before our big dinner coming up that evening!
After lunch, we took our obligatory tourist pictures at the CDMX sign. The city started its rebranding from Distrito Federal to Ciudad de Mexico in 2016. While the name change isn't officially set in stone until 2018, you can see signs of the shift all around the city, most notably with the new pink CDMX-branded cabs. Read more about what this name change represents politically here and here.
Of course, a visit to Mexico City isn't complete without a visit to the largest cathedral in the Americas...it might also have the longest name: Catedral Metropolitana de la Asunción de la Santísima Virgen María a los cielos. It doesn't disappoint. The picture of the doll above is an ongoing mystery though, does anyone know what that is / what that represents? There were a ton of people taking pictures with it but no signage. That wasn't something I had seen in a church before!
Our friends told us that we had to stop by the Palace of Fine Arts building, so we walked over there to admire it from the outside. It's right on the edge of a park, Alameda Central, where tons of families bring their kids to play in the water fountains. There was also a street festival going on in the area and we resisted the urge to snack before our big dinner coming up that evening!
After a quick rooftop drone flying session (LOL), we headed over to Polanco for our long awaited Quintonil dinner. The ambiance and service were both fitting for such an upscale restaurant without being stuffy or overly formal. We decided to all go with the set menu and order bottles of wine for the table. Our waiters took the time to explain every dish to us which I really appreciated...maybe besides the ant larvae one though. For food, drink, tip, and tax, this amazing meal cost us each $115 and we all felt like it was incredibly worth it. I'll let these pictures speak for themselves...
After dinner, we got cocktails at Jules Basement, where you enter through a refrigerator door in the restaurant "next door." The drinks were great but it was super loud and no one was dancing. So after a round of drinks, we went somewhere with live music where our waitress looked like Khloe Kardashian (but probably wasn't her).
Sunday
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I'm thankful that my friends are willing to drag my hungover butt out of bed because we had a great breakfast at Fonda Mayora before our street art tour. They have a pastry and mimosa cart, so I'm not sure what else you could want in a brunch spot. We liked the green juice that the NYT article mentioned but didn't like the huevos encamisados that much (if you get it, ask for the beans on the side). The sopes pictured on the right, however, were amazing.
Street Art Chilango, which we also heard of courtesy of the NYT, was one of the best parts of our weekend. It would be awesome to do on your first day so that you can keep an eye out for the awesome street art as you explore the city. Abril is their only tour guide and she was knowledgeable and funny and honest and quick...which is basically everything you could want in a guide. She is a hunter (of street art) and we loved seeing both the art and the city through her eyes. I learned that there's a cultural divide between graffiti and street artists, because the latter group is seen as having sold out. Street art is usually done within the system (i.e. with permission) whereas graffiti is more about claiming / reclaiming space by making your mark (with words not visuals). Artists are usually part of crews - the more respect the crew / artist has, the less likely that his / her art will get tagged on. It was also awesome how international the street art community seems to be - we saw pieces done by famous American and European artists that do work all around the world. The tour takes you around the Roma Norte neighborhood which, in the words of Owitter is "bougie AF." We saw a vegan ramen restaurant, so she isn't to be argued with.
Street Art Chilango, which we also heard of courtesy of the NYT, was one of the best parts of our weekend. It would be awesome to do on your first day so that you can keep an eye out for the awesome street art as you explore the city. Abril is their only tour guide and she was knowledgeable and funny and honest and quick...which is basically everything you could want in a guide. She is a hunter (of street art) and we loved seeing both the art and the city through her eyes. I learned that there's a cultural divide between graffiti and street artists, because the latter group is seen as having sold out. Street art is usually done within the system (i.e. with permission) whereas graffiti is more about claiming / reclaiming space by making your mark (with words not visuals). Artists are usually part of crews - the more respect the crew / artist has, the less likely that his / her art will get tagged on. It was also awesome how international the street art community seems to be - we saw pieces done by famous American and European artists that do work all around the world. The tour takes you around the Roma Norte neighborhood which, in the words of Owitter is "bougie AF." We saw a vegan ramen restaurant, so she isn't to be argued with.
![Picture](/uploads/6/5/4/7/65472707/published/img-6012.jpg?1489529505)
After the street art tour, we went to Mercado Roma for lunch and churros (they also have a very nice bathroom). There was so much to peruse here. From grasshopper salsa (which I purchased) to flavored popcorn (which I tasted a lot of) to sushiritto, it's basically like you stepped into Chelsea Market. We decided to stick with Mexican food and got some barbacoa tacos at one of the stands on the ground floor before indulging in our main focus for the afternoon, churro ice cream sandwiches. Our eyes were bigger than our stomachs. We probably could have shared one ice cream sandwich or gotten the minis, and then had some normal churros on the side. But all in all, zero regrets. Because, I mean, look at that.
Abril recommended an artisan market, La Ciudadela, so we stopped by there to see if we wanted to pick up any more souvenirs. This place is huge and definitely has a lot. But, what caught our eye was the library across the street (this is normal when traveling with Alyssa). It had open courtyards and was beautiful to walk through. There was also a photography exhibit in the gallery next door that was open to the public. See? Even with our aggressively planned itineraries, we made time for some random exploring.
Abril recommended an artisan market, La Ciudadela, so we stopped by there to see if we wanted to pick up any more souvenirs. This place is huge and definitely has a lot. But, what caught our eye was the library across the street (this is normal when traveling with Alyssa). It had open courtyards and was beautiful to walk through. There was also a photography exhibit in the gallery next door that was open to the public. See? Even with our aggressively planned itineraries, we made time for some random exploring.
![Picture](/uploads/6/5/4/7/65472707/published/img-6022-2.jpeg?1489530456)
Our last stop before dinner was the Central Park of Mexico City, which is where you'll find the Castillo de Chapultepec, or Chapultepec Castle. You'll need to get dropped off on the outside of the park, and then walk to the castle. The park was PACKED! It felt almost like an amusement park with the amount of food stalls, face painters, and the like. There's a pond where you can rent paddle / row boats by the hour which could be a more family-friendly alternative to the floating gardens. The castle is also free to the public on Sundays. I love free things, but that also means that it's very crowded. If you want to spend time seeing a lot of the exhibits, you may want to come on another day of the week. We loved the view from the gardens - you could see how big the park is with the growing skyline in the background.
And last but not least...our last meal! We topped off our weekend with some amazing seafood at Contramar. I recommend emailing them for reservations. The ahi tuna appetizer was a highlight, second only to their signature grilled fish (which you order by weight). Half of it was seasoned with parsley and the other side is red chile. I couldn't decide which I liked more! And of course, it was served with our favorite bean dish. Which I'm pretty sure is what refried beans should always taste like but never does. As always, save room for dessert!! The fig tart is a must. There was also this dish of what looked like black apple sauce. We tried it at our waiter's suggestion and it was really good. It's was super confusing to eat because it tasted like orange juice but looks nothing like it.
And last but not least...our last meal! We topped off our weekend with some amazing seafood at Contramar. I recommend emailing them for reservations. The ahi tuna appetizer was a highlight, second only to their signature grilled fish (which you order by weight). Half of it was seasoned with parsley and the other side is red chile. I couldn't decide which I liked more! And of course, it was served with our favorite bean dish. Which I'm pretty sure is what refried beans should always taste like but never does. As always, save room for dessert!! The fig tart is a must. There was also this dish of what looked like black apple sauce. We tried it at our waiter's suggestion and it was really good. It's was super confusing to eat because it tasted like orange juice but looks nothing like it.
I went back to Mexico City with a group of about 20 friends from HBS. While I did a few things again (churros at Mercado Roma and the street art tour), there were a bunch of new things to explore. See the list below!
We stayed in two Airbnbs in La Condesa - highly recommend this place for groups.
Activities
Dancing / Live Music
Restaurants
Activities
- Museo Nacional de Antropología - the coolest part of this museum was these giant Olmec heads. There's a big one inside then a few more in the outdoor garden. There is so much to see - you could spend hours inside. But, I think you can breeze through it (don't miss the Olmec heads though obvi) and then take a few pictures in the center courtyard which is really beautiful. I recommend grabbing brunch at Eno (see below) and then walking over to the museum.
- Monumento a la Revolución - we took the elevator up after sunset. It was awesome to see the city at night and the monument itself was beautifully lit. Details / hours here.
- Licoreria Limantour - made the World's 50 Best Bars list in 2017. Before and after, head a few blocks down (walk left when leaving the bar) and grab some street tacos at El Gato Volador or some of the other vendors next to it.
- Hanky Panky - this was the coolest speakeasy. It's small, so call to make a reservation. Then, they'll tell you how to get there. I won't even post the awesome video we have going in / out. You'll have to check it out for yourself. There's one table for bigger groups and then some seating along a bar.
- Corredor Salamanca - this is Container Bar meets Mercado Roma, perfect for day drinking and enjoying the fresh air. A bunch of stalls sell food, ice cream, and drinks. Upstairs, you have Pong Bar, which you know I'm a fan of, and a few TVs if you want to catch a sports game or two.
- Downtown - rooftop bar, as the name suggests, in downtown CDMX. I didn't go here, but some friends did one evening and they enjoyed having a cocktail while relaxing in the pool lounge chairs.
Dancing / Live Music
- Mama Rumba - stop by to kick off the night with some salsa. The crowd is a little older and there's a cover, but the atmosphere and music is great (if you like salsa).
- Patrick Miller - reminiscent of a European club. Great music, huge dance floor, and a second floor where you can people watch and cool down.
- Bajo Circuito - I'll be honest I'm not totally sure how we ended up here...but it was like a small concert venue with a bar along the side. We enjoyed the live music (there were rappers there that night) and felt like we found a bit of the underground (at least relatively speaking) nightlife scene.
Restaurants
- Eno - Chef Enrique Olvera of Pujol fame has a few of these more casual cafes. We went to the one in Polanco and enjoyed our breakfast at a large communal table by the kitchen. A Mexican businessman next to us helped us decipher the menu. The coffee, hot chocolate, and sandwiches all hit the spot. [he now also has a tortilla shop too]
- Obviously I had to go to Pujol this time around. It did not disappoint. They're in a brand new location that is beautiful. I went for lunch and I think we were there for almost 4 hours, so plan accordingly. We didn't do the wine pairing, just had a couple cocktails. If you do the wine pairing & dinner...be prepared to go straight to bed after. I'll let the photos below speak for themselves.
November 2021 Trip
John and I spent a week in CDMX before going to a wedding in Guadalajara. It was John's first time so we repeated a few things that I had done before (Pujol, Contramar, Museo Nacional de Antropología, Licorería Limantour) but had plenty of time to eat at new restaurants and do a few longer activities. Beto, from the Casa Jacaranda cooking class, also shared his recommendation list (lots of overlap) which is linked here.
Food:
Tacos -
Coffee shops / brunch -
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Activities:
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