Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) | Virunga National Park
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I went to the DRC in March 2016 to visit Virunga National Park. Unless you can get on a UN flight, as of 2016, the easiest way to get to Goma is to cross from Rwanda via the Gisenyi - Goma border. Our tour operator, Kasitu Eco Tours, managed all our logistics. It was a great deal for the value and they were really easy to communicate with via email. However, you can also purchase transportation, park accommodations, and permits through the official Virunga National Park site. If you, or someone you're traveling with, speak French, then I'm fairly confident you could plan it on your own and cross the border without much difficulty.
In Goma, we stayed at Lac Kivu Lodge which was comfortable, safe, and had amazing food (homemade pasta, generous seafood entrees, flaky French pastries). The juxtaposition between the chaotic streets of Goma to the peaceful, upscale atmosphere at Lac Kivu Lodge was immediately noticeable. Goma is home to 20,000 UN Troops and many NGOs, and you can see that much of the city caters to this demographic. I didn't expect Goma to be more expensive than Uganda in terms of food and transportation. While we felt safe the whole time we were in the DRC, the day we left the park, two rangers were killed by rebels in a different region of the park. Kasitu and all the park rangers took safety really seriously, but do travel with caution. Save some luggage space because the DRC is known for its beautiful kitenge cloth. |
Wooden chukudus are used to move materials around town
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The two main "attractions" in the park are the mountain gorillas and Nyiragongo volcano. I've compiled some video footage below (no editing) so you can see and hear some of what we did. All in all, this was truly a once in a lifetime experience.
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An hour with the mountain gorillas
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The main reason we decided to see the gorillas in the DRC was because we were also going to Nyiragongo. It is also much cheaper, though you'd have to factor in transportation and visa costs based on what other regional travel you may have planned.
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Permit Cost: $400
Rwanda - $750 Uganda - $600 or $450 in low season |
There are 8 habituated families that you can visit in Virunga. We visited the Nyakamwe (NY) family which was named after a park ranger that was killed by a poacher. We hiked for about an hour and half from the Bukima ranger's post until we found the family. I would definitely recommend bringing a rain jacket, rain pants, and a cover for your backpack. They will protect you not only from rain but also all the branches you'll walk through. The footpath is visible, but the leading park ranger was constantly having to cut down branches to clear the way with his machete.
You'll be asked to don masks to prevent spreading germs with the mountain gorillas. Technically, visitors are to stay 8 meters away, but as the gorillas moved around, we found ourselves closer at times. While you only have one hour with the gorillas, it was plenty of time to observe and take lots of photos.
The whole experience truly exceeded my expectations. For the most part, the gorillas ignored us and went about their lazy mornings- they ate, groomed one another, and played with their babies. At one point though, one of the silverbacks stood up and beat its chest which was alarming. We dropped to our knees quickly as instructed as the ranger made some low-coughing noises which seemed to show the silverback that we were not afraid but also not challenging him.
You'll be asked to don masks to prevent spreading germs with the mountain gorillas. Technically, visitors are to stay 8 meters away, but as the gorillas moved around, we found ourselves closer at times. While you only have one hour with the gorillas, it was plenty of time to observe and take lots of photos.
The whole experience truly exceeded my expectations. For the most part, the gorillas ignored us and went about their lazy mornings- they ate, groomed one another, and played with their babies. At one point though, one of the silverbacks stood up and beat its chest which was alarming. We dropped to our knees quickly as instructed as the ranger made some low-coughing noises which seemed to show the silverback that we were not afraid but also not challenging him.
Spending the night atop Nyiragongo
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Altitude: 3470m / 11,382ft (you start from 1989m / 6,525 ft)
Trek length: About 5.5 hours up, 3 hours down Temperature: about 30-40s at night, so bring warm layers and a full change of clothes because you'll likely get rained on while ascending |
Nyiragongo volcano is at its most active since the last eruption in 2002. We were pretty nervous since we heard about the new lava river which you can see in the photo above, that formed at the end of February. However, we were assured by the park rangers (and friends who had just descended) that activity is being closely monitored.
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The hike starts a little after 10am from the Kibati patrol post which isn't far from the park entrance. Unless you book through a tour company, you are in charge of your own food and can elect to hire porters ($24). The trail is well maintained and there are set break areas heading up to the summit. The first section took us a little over an hour and is the easiest section. You'll miss it once you set off for the next section which is on unstable volcanic rock. Bring or buy walking sticks (you can get them at the post) and wear sturdy hiking shoes to take care of your ankles!
The hike was extremely exhausting and required a lot of focus because of the tough terrain. But, what you get to see at the top is well worth the effort. My favorite time to watch the lava lake was just before sunset and at sunrise. It's an intense experience - you can watch and hear the lava boil, crash, and flow. We felt lucky to see Nyiragongo at such a high level of activity!
The wooden cabins you see in the photo above are being replaced by metal ones with doors. There are sleeping mats on the ground so you won't need to bring one, but do bring a good sleeping bag. The cabin does a good job of keeping the wind and rain out, but it does get chilly. Don't forget to pack toilet paper. There's a drop toilet at the summit which will give you probably the best views you'll ever have while doing your business :)
The volcano's last eruption was especially deadly because the rebels kept the information for themselves and didn't warn Goma residents to evacuate. Scientists should have a week or two notice before any future eruption which will allow those in the surrounding areas to move to safety - there is a camp in Rwanda that was set up in 2002 that still remains, ready to receive the Congolese. I thought that all volcanos erupted from the center, but part of the reason why a Nyiragongo eruption is scary is because the lava drains from the lake through fissures in the side of the volcano. In 2002, they had thought that some of the lava flow had slowed / stopped but then lava erupted again in Goma town a few hours later.
The hike was extremely exhausting and required a lot of focus because of the tough terrain. But, what you get to see at the top is well worth the effort. My favorite time to watch the lava lake was just before sunset and at sunrise. It's an intense experience - you can watch and hear the lava boil, crash, and flow. We felt lucky to see Nyiragongo at such a high level of activity!
The wooden cabins you see in the photo above are being replaced by metal ones with doors. There are sleeping mats on the ground so you won't need to bring one, but do bring a good sleeping bag. The cabin does a good job of keeping the wind and rain out, but it does get chilly. Don't forget to pack toilet paper. There's a drop toilet at the summit which will give you probably the best views you'll ever have while doing your business :)
The volcano's last eruption was especially deadly because the rebels kept the information for themselves and didn't warn Goma residents to evacuate. Scientists should have a week or two notice before any future eruption which will allow those in the surrounding areas to move to safety - there is a camp in Rwanda that was set up in 2002 that still remains, ready to receive the Congolese. I thought that all volcanos erupted from the center, but part of the reason why a Nyiragongo eruption is scary is because the lava drains from the lake through fissures in the side of the volcano. In 2002, they had thought that some of the lava flow had slowed / stopped but then lava erupted again in Goma town a few hours later.
