I've had the privilege to go to Peru and Machu Picchu not just once, but twice. The first trip was with my family in December 2012. We spent a few days in Cusco, toured the sacred valley, then took the train to and from Machu Picchu. When my friends started planning for their September 2014 trip, at first, I didn't consider going with them. But, they were going to hike instead of take the train, and my mom convinced me that it would be such a different experience. And, as always, she was right. I couldn't have asked for a better group to go off the grid with for a few days - I don't think I've ever laughed (or thrown up) more in my life. Not only was it an incredible trip because of the location, I know that this is the type of trip that will be nearly impossible to recreate again. 

A few high level points before we dive in: 

• While Lima probably boasts some of the country's best ceviche, most recommendations I got were to skip Lima and just head straight to Cusco. I'd also love to check out Lake Titicaca, but we'll save that for a future trip.
  
• We found pretty flight great deals with United miles, and American Airline loyalists should have some good options too given the alliance with LAN.
  
• Don't buy too many sweaters but do buy as many llama keychains as you can fit in the crevices of your suitcase / backpack. 

Be patient with the altitude

Llama Path

While there are plans to allow international flights to land directly in Cusco, you'll still have to fly to Lima and then get on a domestic flight to Cusco. If you're in South America, buying a ticket in person at an airline like LAN will probably be the cheapest.

At a little over 11,000 ft above sea level, you'll feel the altitude when you're in town. Altitude sickness strikes somewhat randomly and isn't linked to gender, size, fitness level, etc. It takes a few days to adjust so build in a few days in Cusco into your itinerary. If you're hiking, I would recommend getting medication ahead of time because - and I'm speaking from personal experience - hiking with altitude sickness is no fun. 

The number of tour operators that take tourists to / from Machu PIcchu can make your head spin. So, just take my word for it and go with Llama Path. I used them on both trips and had a great experience. Their prices are fair, they are committed to sustainable tourism, and they pay their staff well. Llama Path provides porters, some of the hardest working but worst paid folks on the trail, suitable accommodations in Cusco so they can rest up between treks and also build a community with one another.

We put in our deposit via Western Union which felt sketchy but ended up being the fastest and cheapest option. They have an office in central Cusco, and we sorted out the rest of our trek details (and day trips) once we got there.

Early September Packing List

The weather varies a lot, so if you're getting a packing list from a friend, make sure to ask when they went. If you're traveling from the Northern Hemisphere, remember that the seasons are virtually opposite! American summertime is super cold, especially on the hike. Here's our female friendly list.

Trek - Clothing

• Broken in hiking boots (if prone to ankle rolls, bring high boots)
• 7 pairs of hiking socks. BUY HIKING SOCKS, YOUR FEET WILLL BE GRATEFUL (if you have liners bring them)
• 3 pairs of leggings / workout pants (1st and second day, one for sleeping)
• 2 pairs of dry fit running shorts (for 3rd-5th day)
• Underwear for every day
• 3-4 sports bras
• 4 dry fit tank tops / dry fit t-shirts (keep one clean for last day)
• 1 Fleece / thinner quarter zip
• 1 warm outer layer jacket (thin down coat or warm zip up fleece; must compress well in backpack)
• 1 raincoat
• 1 long sleeve (flannel or dry-fit base layer)
• 1 pair of lightweight gloves for evenings
• 1 hat

 Optional:

• Camera (I always travel with one, but this is something you can also coordinate with your group)
  
• Flip flops
• Rain pants (I'm a huge advocate of rain pants and have found them extremely useful on multiple trips)
• Hiking pants (if you don't bring hiking pants make sure to bring full length leggings)
• Sleeping bag (if you go with Llama path and rent it from them, they will pack it up for you daily #glamping)
• Mummy liner like this (another investment that you'll use over and over again - perfect for hostels)
• Inflatable camping pillow (I have this one and also use it on flights)
• 1 granola bar/ trail mix type snack per day (Llama Path provided sufficient snacks)
• Watch
• Waterproof backpack cover

Trek - Stuff

• Sunglasses
• Microfiber towel 
• Sunscreen
• High DEET bug-spray
• Toilet paper
• Hand sanitizer or wet ones
• Bathing wipes
• Head lamp (not flashlight)
• Altitude sickness medication (so worth it!)
• Day pack (around 20L; should fit rain jacket, fleece, water, and snacks)
• Water bladder (recommended) or water bottle(s) - you'll want to be able to carry at least 1L
• Toothbrush & toothpaste
• Contacts / contact solution (bring disposables if you have them)
• Chapstick with SPF
• Blister protection (coordinate with your group)
• Playing cards
• 50 soles for drinks and snacks along the way
• Soles for tips
• Large and small plastic bags for waterproofing and dirty clothes

Cusco

• Comfortable walking shoes / sneakers (or you can wear your hiking boots)
• 1 pair of jeans
• 1 scarf
• 1 clean outfit to fly home in (include extra outer layer)
• Cross body bag with zippers
• Socks and underwear for each day
• Normal bra

Cusco

The Pariwana Hostel is one of my favorite hostels I've been in! Storage locks in the rooms had chargers so you could safely charge your electronics overnight. There are a bunch of bean bags out in the central courtyard so you can rest after a long day exploring the city. And, you can treat yourself to unlimited coca tea while you challenge your friends to games of Sapo. We also treated ourselves to a night at the Palacio del Inka on the night we returned from our hike. The breakfast spread was amazing and the rooms were spacious. However, the pool and spa cost extra to use so we didn't end up getting to soak in a hot tub as we had planned. 

We didn't do any organized tours in Cusco. It's not a big city so you can wander around pretty easily without missing too much. We made sure not to miss Coricancha, the Inca's temple dedicated to the sun god, and the Cusco Cathedral. I had an extra day in Cusco as my friends went to see the Sacred Valley. I challenged myself to explore Cusco's public transport system, and successfully rode the bus up to Saksaywaman, Q'enqo, and Tambomachay. I hired a tour guide once I got there - they wear official vests so they're easy to spot. 

We also did a half-day Maras Moray tour with Llama Path. There are options to bike this route which we were torn about. After going, we do NOT regret forgoing the bike ride. You can also ride ATVs, but it would have been pretty dusty and the roads aren't in great condition so I'm not sure we all would have felt incredibly safe. 

I found the restaurant scene in Cusco hard to wrap my head around. My take is that the super high end restaurants aren't worth the money and the sweet spot is finding a mid-range option that isn't overly catering to the tourist scene. Here are two places I really liked:

• Pachapapa - I went here on each trip. Sit in the inside courtyard, it's beautiful and a relaxing lunch spot. There are also usually some women selling knick-knacks nearby (continue straight and up the stairs by the fountain as you walk out the door)
• Papachos - burgers and beer. Great for groups, right on the main square, plus they have crayons so you can embrace your inner 5 yr old and play tic tac toe with friends while you wait for your food

Sacred Valley

You can see the Sacred Valley as a day trip from Cusco. Again, highly recommend going with Llama Path as they'll set everything up for you. When I traveled with my parents, we left Cusco in the morning, toured the Sacred Valley, then spent the night in Ollantaytambo and caught the PeruRail train to Aguas Calientes in the morning.

See a few photos towards the end of the gallery above. There is a lot of interesting history and I recommend either going with a tour guide from Cusco, or hiring one when you arrive. Try to resist buying more sweaters...I wasn't able to. Pretty sure I ended up with 3?

Salkantay Trek & Machu Picchu

The Inca Trail is by far the most popular route. In all honesty, had we planned farther in advance, we likely would have chosen to hike the Inca Trail. However, we spoke to a few friends who had done both, and found that what the Salkantay lacks in historical ruins along the way (Machu Picchu-lite, if you will), it makes up in natural beauty. Throughout the four day hike, you'll see the glacier covered Salkantay peak then quickly descend into lush vegetation and the cloud forest below. 

This isn't an easy trek. I proudly held up the rear of our group for most of the trip, altitude sickness playing a small role towards the beginning of our hike. While you can definitely train and prepare yourself, at the end of the day I think it was either altitude or foot blisters (again, a plug for good hiking socks) that were the source of most of our complaints. 

Once you get to Aguas Calientes, enjoy a full night's rest before waking up for sunrise (don't be late!) at Machu Picchu. I took the bus up both times. If you really want to hike it's possible but I would recommend saving your legs for Huayna Picchu mountain once you get up there (tickets required). If you get a clear day, it gives you another great view of Machu Picchu. Your tickets for Machu Picchu are good for the day, with in and out privileges. So, if for some reason you get really sick, leave your camera at the hotel, or want to wait out the fog, you can head up again in the afternoon. You will need another bus ticket though!

I'll let these photos speak for themselves - hopefully they inspire you to take a trip soon!