Invisible Children, Kony 2012﻿

Invisible Children, Kony 2012

3/9/2016

…yeah remember that? I never did end up watching Kony 2012, but I did drive by what used to be Joseph Kony’s home last week. I wonder if Ugandans know that high school and college students around the world were sporting “Kony 2012” paraphernalia in 2006.

I spent last week up north in Gulu and Arua, which were really affected by the LRA insurgency. For having endured such horrific acts so recently, I was shocked to see how quickly the people in these areas seem to have rebounded. Most of us are used to seeing memorials commemorating the lives and deaths of those that have fought on the “good sides” of wars or lost their lives at the hands of ruthless aggressors (think 9/11 memorial, Holocaust museum, etc.). However, it seems that northern Ugandans have consciously decided to put the past in the past and move forward. Even the way they speak about the atrocities that happened to them or their close friends and family are done so matter-of-factly.

One of the women I worked with last week, a midwife by training, was telling us (only after being asked directly what it was like to live in Gulu during that time) how she was traveling back from a training in Kampala when she got abducted for the first time (yes, it happened more than once). She was in the passenger seat of a car in which the driver was shot. She nearly died. The rebels took her into the bush where she was held for a few days. She was only released because a female rebel recognized her from the hospital and encouraged the others to let her go since she had helped delivered many babies. My neighbor, also from the Gulu area, recounted stories over dinner of how as a middle school student, they would have to sneak out of the dorms after sundown so that if the rebels who were following the students attacked the dorms, they’d be a step ahead. It’s crazy to me that they could even do any learning under those circumstances.

Chinese supermarket in Arua - there is a Chinese company doing a lot of the road work in this area

This way of compartmentalizing seems to align with my observation of Ugandan culture and personalities. Ugandans (yes, I’m generalizing) live very much in the present which can make it difficult to plan ahead (socially and professionally). Many of you can probably talk about a time where you were angry down to your core – I don’t find that Ugandans express their deep seeded frustrations or dwell on controversial topics. There’s this tendency to just move on from arguments and laugh about things, which can be frustrating or conducive depending on what your desired outcome is. Sure, there were riots surrounding the election, but many have come to accept Museveni’s rule and corruption as just how it will be. I was surprised to hear how many Ugandans truly believed that Besigye would have won in a fair election but figure that Museveni is old and will die eventually. Perhaps this attitude and lack of passionate anger is partially why this corruption has been able to endure for so long.

My colleague who lived in Uganda during this time said that it was life-as-usual in the capital. They were vaguely aware of what was going on up north since it was absolutely unsafe to go anywhere near there, but they were not affected by it even though it’s only 4-5 hours away by car (though the roads are much better now so it probably took a bit longer). I’m trying to learn more about modern Uganda history so I'm currently reading The Teeth May Smile But the Heart Does Not Forget which follows a son's search for answers around his father’s sudden disappearance about 30 years ago. So far it's a really powerful read.

On a more touristy note – I have to highly recommend the Iron Donkey Café in Gulu. They have a legit coffee machine, grilled cheese & tomato soup, wraps, and a killer quesadilla (granted my bar has been lowered). I would have never expected to find such a slice of home so far outside Kampala. Thanks Nicky for the suggestion!